From Vientiane to Luang Prabang, and back

(November 2009)

There are 2 options for the direct route: the less scenic route by plane or the more scenic route by bus.

Other differences: 35 minutes and approximately US$85 by plane vs. 8 – 10 hours and approximately US$15 by bus.

Obviously, the plane option is a straight-forward affair on a Fokker from Wattay International Airport in Vientiane to Luang Prabang International Airport serviced by Laos Airlines.

For the bus option, you journey starts at the Kiew Lot Sai Nuan bus station.

The first 2 hours of the bus ride from Vientiane to Vang Vieng is uneventful along a relatively straight stretch of paved road. The subsequent 6.5 hours of ride is challenging to say the least. The picturesque mountainous region coupled with the poorly paved road at times made for a bumpy and windy ride.

This is why you are provided with a bottle of drinking water and a small plastic bag before the bus departs the station. The plastic bag serves both as a trash bag and a sickness bag.

The bus configuration is not standard as some buses are with 2 + 2 seats in a row (2 on the left of the center aisle and 2 on the right), some with 2 + 1 seats in a row, and some with a combination of the two. The 2 + 1 seat configuration is logically the most comfortable as the seats are wider.

Most of the buses have a tiny toilet with just enough room for a medium-sized person to fit in.

If and when the toilet is not in a usable state for various reasons, the bus driver normally makes a quick stop in the middle of a deserted stretch of the road The frequent travelers automatically get off the bus to find a convenient location to relief themselves. It’s actually quite a sight :-)

The bus does stop for a half-an-hour lunch break 5.5 hours into the journey at a rather spacious and clean restaurant in the highland area.

 

The lunch, provided as part of the bus fare, is a choice of either a bowl of rice noodle in broth or a plate of steamed rice with your choice of 2 of the 5 – 6 available vegetables and meat dishes displayed on the serving counter. Note that some Laotians do not practice lining up in a queue.

  

Take the opportunity to enjoy the view of the mountain range behind the restaurant. It takes about 3 hours to reach Luang Prabang from here.

 

For the bus journey from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, the lunch stop is in a village restaurant about an hour before Vang Vieng.

 

The VIP bus fare from Vientiane to Luang Prabang is 115,000 Kip. If you book from a guest house or hotel, the cost is around 160,000 Kip which includes a tuk-tuk ride to the bus station. (US$1 is approximately 8,000 Kip.)

The VIP bus fare from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, however, is slightly less at 95,000 Kip.

The standard bus is air-conditioned but is less plush and is slower. The luggage compartment is ON the bus.

Note 1: The bus makes some stops to drop off or pickup passengers along the journey.

Note 2: Prepare something with a strong but soothing aroma, such as an ointment or an aromatherapy oil, to mask the contagious air in when a sickness bag is in use.

Note 3: When you get off the bus in Luang Prabang, there are tuk-tuk to take you to your intended destination. If you are looking for accommodation, there are numerous guest house staff ready for your patronage.